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Kokanee Hull Panels, Bulkheads and Transom

The Kokanee 38 requires 40' long panels. I won't go into scarfing hull panels on this project, refer to the Godzilli Scarfing page. It is the same process, the panels are just twice as long. One area that requires more attention is getting a "bench" made up that is 40 feet long. I used sawhorses and put a strip of scrap plywood on each one as a spacer. Every third one needs to be in position to support a scarf joint, on these sawhorses the scrap plywood is about 12' wide. When all the sawhorses are lined up and spaced properly I run a string across the top to and shim the legs as needed to get them all on the same plane.

After the first layer is laid down I run a string along the edge to ensure it is as straight as possible. If the sawhorses are on the same plane it is much easier to see if the panel is straight.

Plywood Epoxy Stitch and Glue Design

Bulkhead Blanks

The bulkheads are 1" thick made out of two layers of 1/2" plywood and I made nine 12' x 8' panels from which to cut the bulkheads. The first step to gluing up the blank is to get a flat surface to work on. The strongback sections for building the hull are 6' x 8' so I screwed two of them together and added supports inside the grid where needed. I got it all fairly flat and level and covered it with plywood to get a 8' x 12' table.

Each blank panel requires five 4'x8' sheet of 1/2" plywood and two 2' x 8' sheets of 1/2" plywood. I covered the "table" with plastic and laid down three full sheets of plywood tacking then in place so they did not move and applied epoxy to the entire surface. Over those I fit one of the 2' x 8' pieces on one edge followed by two 4' x 8' pieces and another 2' x 8' and tacked those in place, I applied epoxy to those surfaces as well before I set them in place. I laid down another layer of plastic and repeated the step eight times.

Plywood Epoxy Stitch and Glue Design

Plywood Epoxy Stitch and Glue Design

After the last layer was laid down I covered it with plastic and plywood and put weights over the surface. All the joints in the blanks are butt joints, but they are all offset 2' and the stresses on the bulkheads are such that but joints are ok.

Plywood Epoxy Stitch and Glue Design


For the transom mold I scarfed up two layers of 3/4" plywood that were 4' x 12'. I ripped them both down the center and stacked the four pieces. I cut the desired crown on one edge and notched them about every 12" so a 2x4 would lay in each notch. The 2x4's are all 5' long and screwed and glued in place.

Plywood Epoxy Stitch and Glue Design

The transom is made out of four 5' x 10' sheets of plywood. I laid plastic over the transom mold and stacked the four sheets of plywood on top applying epoxy to all mating surfaces. After the sheets of plywood were all stacked. evened up and square on the mold I screwed them in place to the mold 2x4's starting in the center. Once the center was done I loosely clamped each end and then finished screwing the plywood to the mold working from the center out.

I used #10 x 3" construction screws for the fasteners and scrap plywood to act as a clamp.

Plywood Epoxy Stitch and Glue Design


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