After the hull is rolled over the remainder of the bulkhead glassing can be finished. All the verticals except those in stern were done as a part of the tabbing while the hull was still upside down. The stem is usually glassed on the hull, but this boat is going to have a 1 1/2" wide bright wood stem. In order to get a flat wide enough for the stem to land on, the bow was ground flat, down to the glass on the interior. To build this area back up a piece of wood is epoxied into the interior surface of the bow and glassed in place. The glass schedule on the interior it two layer of biax and two layers of tooling cloth
This is the completion of what I refer to as a "bare hull" which means all exterior hull glassing and sealing is done and all interior bulkheads, longitudinals, chine and keel joints are glassed.
Go to the Epoxy Page for more details on glassing.
The first part of the interior construction involves cutting back all the bulkheads as per the plans and mark where all the flats are to be located. Where flats meet the hull cleats need to be installed as landing for the flats. This is a good time to go through the wood scraps around the shop and mill up a bunch of 3/4" x 1/2" (approx) stock. I avoid using plywood because I always have plenty of dimensional lumber fall down to use, but good BS 1088 plywood will work.
This hull is only 1/2" thick so cleats need to be shaped to fit against the hull or they may flatten the hull panels a bit causing an unfairness in the hull. Fasteners for the cleats only need to be long enough to hold the cleats in place while the epoxy cures, there is not much hull thickness to work with.
After the cleats in a compartment are in place flats can be cut. I use 1/4" plywood strips about 4" wide to make patterns. The picture below is a pattern for the forward flat. There was a cleat installed on the forward face of the bulkhead, that is where the pattern was started by screwing it to the cleat. After that just start fitting more of the pieces. Two 1/2" screws at each joint is usually enough to hold the patterns together. Whenever I make patterns I do not worry about them fitting perfectly into the corners. I will cut them with sharp corners and work the corners down by eye. It is not important that the flats fit tight or are beveled to lay against the hull perfectly. When they are epoxied in place peanut butter can be worked into the gaps.
Below is a picture of the boat that is ready to have the flats installed. In the cockpit there were two longitudinals installed. The bottom edge is fit with cleats for the sole to land on and the upper edge is where the seat flats will be set.
Before cleats are installed it will save you time later if you have the compartment beneath them sanded and ready to be sealed. After installing the cleats go right into sealing. Seal above the cleats about 1" when you do the compartment. It will take at least two coats to get the compartment well sealed. I always seal three times before bonding flats down. The first coat will raise the grain and sanding will be required. On the next coat use slow hardener in the epoxy so you can go back the next day and seal again with out sanding.
The picture in the lower left is one of the berth flat pieces. After the flat is cut to shape 1"x2" cleats are installed on the bottom of it with the inside edge set 1" to the inside of the opening. This will be the landing for the access lid. The bottoms of all flats need to be sealed like the compartments they cover.
This is a Devlin design, for more information on this design and others offered by Devlin Boat, go to devlinboat.com